Review of Krishna

49 Old Bridge Road

Whitstable CT5 1RD

We delivered some food to a new client earlier in the summer and got chatting about local restaurants. The client recommended Krishna, an Indian restaurant which had opened recently, and said the food was excellent.  Having lived near Tooting in South London for a few years, our idea of a good curry house is different from that of most people.  Once you’ve tried the authentic version, the main High Street Indian doesn’t quite match up so we didn’t get our hopes up about this one.

Last week, though, we were invited to a party round the corner from Krishna.  As the party didn’t start until later in the evening and we’d got the babysitter booked, we decided to make a night of it and give the restaurant a try.  As we sat at one of the very solid red and gold tables, we were presented with a little shot glass filled with a warm drink made from gram flour and roasted cashew nuts.  Drinking this, looking at the menu and noticing the food being served around us, we started to think that perhaps there was something to this place after all.

The menu is divided into vegetarian and non-vegetarian dishes. For starters we shared a mixed platter of veg starters.  This consisted of a perfect ball of onion bhaji flavoured with whole cumin seeds; a crispy vegetable samosa topped with a bean curry; and the best of the lot, vegetable kachori – a little pastry case filled with a spicy curry and topped with creamy yoghurt, tamarind and sprouting seeds.   As with most of the dishes, it was beautifully garnished with curled strings of carrot and beetroot.  

To follow I had the chef’s special tandoori sea bass which was moist and delicately spiced with a green herb paste.  To accompany it I chose a buttery lemon rice which came served in a pretty copper pot and was peppered with pieces of fresh lemon flesh, cashews, split peas and mustard seeds. The waiter also recommended the thick, chunky tadka dhal.   John chose the hyderabadi lamb biryani – layers of pilau rice and lamb in a rich and spicy sauce which came served with a crispy home-made poppadom, tomato and cucumber raita, and some more of that creamy yoghurt.

For pudding we shared a rich, fudge-like mango kulfi which was obviously made from fresh mango as we came away picking strings of mango fibres from our teeth.  

I feel very ashamed that we ever doubted this recommendation.  This is not your run-of-the mill Indian; it’s a good-quality restaurant serving very good food that happens to be Indian.

Review of Kazan

Kazan Meze Restaurant Bar

93-94 Wilson Road

London SW1

During the summer we had a meeting to attend near Green Park.  This was a very important meeting for Pumpkin so we felt the need of a good lunch to sustain our energy levels through the afternoon.  Kazan, a Turkish restaurant, was nearby and conveniently fitted the bill.

Situated on a bustling street behind Victoria station, Kazan is dark and cool inside with small polished wood tables, comfy leather chairs and leather-bound menus. It prides itself on the quality of their meze and judging by our visit, justifiably so. 

We chose the Divan healthy lunch which was a selection of 5 hot and 5 cold meze for £9.99 each. The food is wonderful but sometimes it’s hard to fit it all on the small tables. Bread and olives were followed swiftly by delicious dishes such as borek – crispy spinach & feta filo parcels; falafel made with broad beans as well as chickpeas giving it a more interesting flavour, smooth and creamy humus, bakla – tiny, tender broad beans marinated in oil and served with yoghurt, and kisir – an unusual tomato salad with fresh herbs, nuts and bulgur wheat. 

The home-made Turkish Delight that was presented with the bill was a huge hit.  Not too sweet and with chopped pistachios adding extra flavour & texture, we could have eaten another 3 portions.

As we had to keep our wits about us we avoided the wine list and had pomegranate juice instead.  I had expected this to be a freshly-made concoction but unfortunately it was the ordinary stuff out of a carton.  This was the only criticism of what was otherwise a wonderful lunch.

Review of The Three Mariners

2 Church Road

Oare

Faversham

Kent ME13 0QA

We’ve been meaning to visit this pub for ages.  A local chef with good contacts around the area recommended it to us a year or two ago and last Sunday we finally made good our promise to try it out. 

Set on the corner of a quiet residential area of Faversham the pub looks out over what I assume to be Faversham Creek and surrounding marshes.  On sunny days like last Sunday customers take advantage of the various tables set out on the stepped terraces. We decided to take our Elderflower Fizz cocktails (elderflower cordial and Prosecco) down to the large garden while junior Pumpkin played on some rather rickety play equipment.

Inside we were greeted by a woman who was dressed more like a ballet teacher than a front-of-house but she did fit the surroundings. I would describe the decor as refined shabby-chic with muted cream walls, wooden floorboards and mis-matched wooden furniture. Jars of fresh lilies and trinkets are dotted around the various dining areas, while a selection of safari photos adourn the walls. 

The food is likewise wholesome yet stylish.  Home-made bread was served in an enamel pie dish while very fresh, moist small prawns arrived in an enamel pint mug with accompanying aioli. Our other starter was a mixed mezze and included a wonderfully smoky baba ganoush. 

For main course I chose the plaice and was presented with three very plump pan-fried fillets in a rich chive butter sauce served with wafer-thin courgettes, samphire, sugar snaps and new potatoes. John had the local mullet with courgettes and tomato sauce which was again a generous portion of very fresh fish beautifully cooked. Junior Pumpkin had a child’s portion of roast lamb which they presented inside a giant Yorkshire pudding. 

To round things off I chose a rhubarb and ginger ice cream with a crisp almond biscuit.  The mix of flavours was wonderful – neither the rhubarb nor ginger was overpowering but instead mingled into a new, very refreshing flavour.  John had the buttermilk and elderflower pudding with fresh raspberries which provided the flavour of elderflower and the texture of set yoghurt while junior Pumpkin struggled with a home-made Valhrona chocolate ice cream which was very dark, very bitter and very delicious.

Our chef with contacts always provides good recommendations and this was no exception.  We must get in touch with him again soon to find out what his latest find is.

Christmas Left-Over Pasta

We catered for a winter wedding last weekend.  The menu was a Christmas-style dinner with duck breast instead of turkey.  We came away with some left-over brussel sprouts and chestnuts so decided to use them up with some pasta the next day.

 

We fried off a chopped onion, a chopped clove of garlic and about 200g of chopped streaky bacon in some olive oil and a knob of butter.  When the onion was soft and the bacon starting to crisp up we added a couple of handfuls of shredded brussels and cooked for another couple of minutes until the sprouts were soft.  We then stirred in a handful of chopped cooked chestnuts followed by about three tablespoons of crème fraiche and a tablespoon of chopped flat-leaf parsley, heated it all through and served it with tagliatelle.

 

It was a quick, tasty and cheap supper. We’ll probably do it again a couple of days after Christmas when there will no doubt be more sprouts and chestnuts to use up.

 

Review of Read’s Faversham

Macknade Manor

Canterbury Road

Faversham

Kent ME13 8XE

 

Read’s Restaurant will always be a bit special for us as it’s where we got married.  Unless we are on holiday we always go back to celebrate our anniversary.  This year we weren’t away and headed off with Junior Pumpkin for lunch.  As ever we weren’t disappointed.

 

The restaurant is housed in Macknade Manor – a lovely old country house.  Dining tables are spread over 3 rooms with a 4^th being used for the lounge/bar where aperitifs and coffee can be taken.  In summer drinks and coffee are also served in the courtyard.  The restaurant has bedrooms above for those who want to treat themselves to a night or weekend away.

 

Although the setting is fairly luxurious and traditional, the service couldn’t be more warm and friendly.  It starts as soon as you arrive at the front door.  Every time we’ve been it opens as if by magic as we approach it.  I’ve always assumed they must hear the crunch of car tyres on gravel and then stand poised until you’ve parked but this time we caught the train and walked from the station. Still the door opened magically as we reached the doorstep.  We were then greeted by one of the (mainly French) waiting staff who are young but very professional without a hint of stuffiness.

 

We started proceedings with a glass of the house champagne (Pol Roger) in the lounge while we contemplated the menu.  It’s a good choice for house champagne, dry but not too sharp or yeasty. At our table in the back room overlooking the courtyard we were offered a selection of home-made breads before the starters arrived: olive, organic white and date & walnut – all delicious. 

 

My starter was a duo of smoked fish mousses (salmon and mackerel) served with Melba toast.  They were both beautifully light and creamy, the mackerel in particular was full of flavour without being too strong.  The star first course, though, was the seafood bisque which was wonderful.  It tasted like the smell that wafts up when you peel freshly-cooked prawns.  Junior Pumpkin had the fishcakes with the crowning glory: home-made tomato ketchup.

 

For main course I had wild duck with a tangy blackberry sauce and red cabbage with a deep-fried potato ball while John chose breast of chicken rolled with spinach and served with the most delicious jus.  They were accompanied by broccoli with a little copper saucepan filled with a thick, creamy hollandaise.

 

We shared a plate of British cheeses followed by a perfectly formed, perfectly light and perfectly wonderful apple & Calvados soufflé.  Junior was treated to white chocolate and vanilla ice creams.

 

As I said at the beginning we weren’t disappointed with our meal, we never are.  The food and service are excellent, and well-deserving of their Michelin star, but it’s their consistency that sets them apart. We’ve eaten here at least once a year over the past 5 years and every time the experience has been no better and no worse than the time before.   The bill came to £96 for the three of us including a bottle of Argentinian Malbec.  We can’t afford to eat there every week but with this quality of food, it offers value for money.

Review of Mirch Masala

111-113 Commercial Road

London E1 1RD

 

Last week we got a last-minute booking to cater for a cocktail party in Central London.   January is a very quiet time of year so we’re glad of any work that comes in. The icing on the cake, however, was realising that it was an early evening function, meaning we would have time to stop at our favourite curry house on the way home for a kebab roll.

 

Mirch Masala is a small chain of restaurants the original being in Norbury, near where we used to live.  It became our favourite restaurant after the first visit.  The food was delicious and cheap and it was frequented by mainly Indian and Pakistani diners indicating that it was the real deal.  They don’t serve alcohol but are happy for you to bring your own, making for an even cheaper night out.  It was certainly popular and at the weekends people would be queuing outside the door. 

 

The East London Mirch Masala is on Commercial Road and sort of on our way back to Kent.  We don’t need too much excuse for the short detour.  Our usual order is for 3 kebab rolls (2 for John, 1 for me) and as we order the naan bread is thrown into the tandoor oven and the spicy minced lamb kebabs are put on the charcoals.  Once cooked, they are rolled up in the bread with salad, some of their special chilli sauce and some yoghurt & mint sauce.  We eat the kebabs in the car and savour the smell of the spices as you break open the paper package.  The lamb kebabs are full of cumin and coriander, the heat of the chilli sauce is only just bearable but so addictive, and the bread so fresh and warm.  The explosion of flavour in your mouth is followed by a tingling sensation around your lips as the chilli kicks in.  Utterly wonderful!  I can’t wait for our next early evening function in London.  I may have to up my order to 2.

Review of The Old Brewery Tavern

Abode

High Street

Canterbury CT1 2RX

 

The good thing about being quiet in January is that we have time to go and spend our Christmas money.  After a hard morning trudging around shops in Canterbury we nipped into the Old Brewery Tavern for a spot of lunch.  They do a 2-course menu for £7.95 or 3 for £9.95.  We both opted for 2 courses but John had a starter and main while I went for main and dessert so between us we shared the full Monty.

 

The Tavern is part of Abode Hotel but is tucked away at the rear of the hotel, down a cobbled side street.  As with the hotel restaurant, it is part of Michael Caines’ chain of eateries. The interior has the feel of a modern pub/bar with stripped wooden and slate tile floors; and dark wooden tables and chairs.  It does feel a bit dark inside with the dark wood and the old brewery doors painted black, but a cold, grey day in January isn’t the best time to judge the level of natural lighting.

 

John started with home-made pork pie with Piccalilli: lovely crumbly pastry filled with big chunks of pork belly and a sweet onion chutney.  It was accompanied by half a soft boiled egg and bog-standard Piccalilli – neither did justice to the quite tasty pie.

 

For main I opted for pumpkin, field mushroom & sage gnocchi.  I was expecting the gnocchi to be made of Pumpkin but it was the usual potato variety (not home-made) in a pumpkin, mushroom & sage sauce topped with a generous portion of shaved parmesan. Although not what I expected, it was very nice but perhaps a tad too heavy on the sage.  John had chilli con carne with cheese and sour cream.  The rice was nicely cooked and the dish presented well but as he put it the chilli was “nice enough but not that exciting”. It was accompanied by a very nice, thick sour cream and some grated mature cheddar.

 

For pudding I had cinnamon poached pear with butterscotch sauce and the most delicious pear, raisin & almond fritter.  The fritter was a little pancake wrapped around the fruit & nut filling and deep-fried so that it tasted like a crispy, fruity doughnut.  Yum!

 

The staff were friendly and helpful, although there seemed way too many of them for the amount of diners.  The food was also a little slow to arrive initially but there was a private function in one of the rooms so perhaps this affected the service? 

 

In all it was a nice relaxing lunch.  If you’re looking for something more substantial than a sandwich at lunchtime in Canterbury, this could fit the bill.

Review of Michael Caines at Abode

Abode

High Street

Canterbury

Kent CT1 2RX

 

Recessions do have an upside I discovered this week.  As restaurants struggle to survive the credit crunch there are some great deals to be had when dining out.  We took advantage of one such bargain on Tuesday when we celebrated my birthday at Michael Caines restaurant at Abode in Canterbury.  They were offering a 3-course lunch for £9.95 or £16 if you wanted the addition of matching wines.

 

The restaurant is on the ground floor of the hotel and has a pleasant feel about it.  It’s light and airy with white walls, wooden floors and two-tone leather seats.  Single orange gerberas stand out against the crisp white linen tablecloths bringing a touch of colour to the room.  It may be February and there may be a recession but at least a dozen tables were taken, giving a light buzz to the place.

 

This budget-conscious lunch gives three options at each course.  I decided to go the whole hog and have the wines as well and was pleasantly surprised to find each dish has its own wine individually selected to accompany it.  I chose the white haricot bean soup with bacon and truffle oil.  The truffle was a bit muted but the soup was delicious nonetheless, a small pot of frothy bacon-flavoured cream containing whole haricot beans, with a couple of delicate cheese straws standing to attention by the side.  The accompanying Riesling was a winner, the slightly sweet flavour cutting through the creaminess of the soup.  John had the boudin blanc which was lovely.  It was very light, almost mousse-like in texture, with a mushroom cream sauce and a garnish of almond foam.

 

My main course was beautifully rare roast beef and came with wilted spinach, glazed onion, baby mushrooms and a swirl of the smoothest, creamiest mashed potatoes.  A lovely rich reduction sauce brought everything together and the dish was a wonderful combination of deep flavours. The Cotes du Rhone was again a perfect accompaniment.   John’s mackerel was a bit more delicate with a rich red pepper sauce.

 

Pudding for me was rhubarb and orange charlotte: a light sponge wrapped around a filling of tiny rhubarb slices; shredded, caramelised orange peel; and a creamy custard sauce.  This was garnished with rhubarb jelly, and orange and rhubarb sauces.  It was a lovely refreshing dish to finish with.  John’s apple crumble with butterscotch sauce and vanilla ice cream was also faultless. Unfortunately, my dessert wine got forgotten so I only got to try it after I’d finished my dessert.  Although it was a delicious wine, I didn’t get to taste how well it complemented the dish.

 

To make up for the oversight on the dessert wine, we were given complimentary coffees with petits fours.  Bite-size pieces of Turkish delight, nougat, chocolate nut brownie, madeleine and fudge were a fitting end to a lovely meal.

 

The menu emphasises that the portions on this menu are small as it is more of a tasting menu.  They certainly aren’t large but if you manage to polish off the generous basket of bread rolls they provide, you come out feeling pleasantly full.  At this price, you also come out feeling like you’ve managed to grab a real bargain.

Roasted Rhubarb

As a child I hated rhubarb.  I remember bitter, stringy stuff that stuck in your braces and was served up with custard by the school dinner ladies.  Discovering forced rhubarb as an adult was a revelation: the colour, taste and texture was so different from the stuff I remember from my schooldays. At this time of year I get so excited when I see those first vivid pink sticks making an appearance in the greengrocers.

 

Having a young child, and not wanting to cook twice in the evening, we eat quite early at home and by 8 or 9 O’clock the munchies have set in.  A bowl of Greek yoghurt topped with some kind of fruit and a drizzle of rich honey usually fills the hole, especially when followed by some bitter chocolate.  While the forced stuff is in season our fruit (or should I say vegetable) of choice is rhubarb.

 

Recipe

400g forced rhubarb

1 globe stem ginger finely chopped

1 tbsp Kirsch

1 tbsp caster sugar

 

Pre-heat the oven to 180°.

Cut the rhubarb into small lengths approx 2cm in length.

Sprinkle over the ginger, sugar & Kirsch.

Roast in the oven for 30 minutes or so until the rhubarb is tender and just starts to break up when stirred. Give it a quick mix half-way through to make sure it cooks evenly.

 

Review of Orrery Epicerie

55-57 Marylebone High Street

London W1U 5RB

 

We were catering for an event at The Royal Academy of Music last weekend.  The event was spread over two days and on Sunday we were very early so headed over the road to Orrery Epicerie for a quick brunch.

 

Situated downstairs from the Orrery restaurant, it occupies a lovely corner spot on Marylebone High Street with lots of light from big glass windows on either side.  It’s a combination of deli and cafe and is quite small inside, with a couple of tables and high counters with stools taking up most of the floor space.  There’s an array of dishes in the display counter ready to take away or eat in: prepared salads and casseroles, salmon en croute, quiches, meats and cheeses.  Also on display at the counter are various cakes and pastries while shelves to the back are full of other (mainly French) deli goodies and wines. 

 

We shared a grilled ham & gruyere croissant which came squished from the griddle but providing a lovely combination of sweet pastry and tangy cheese; a pain aux raisins which was a bit on the dry side; and an almond croissant which was delicious and almost cake-like in consistency.  The coffee was very nice, strong without being bitter with just the right amount of milk and foam.

 

At £12 for coffee and pastries for 2 people it’s not exactly cheap, but this a wealthy, chic area and there are plenty of locals willing to pay for quality of this kind of food.

 

Review of Bar Estrela

111-115 South Lambeth Road

London SW8 1UZ

As is always the way in our line of work, jobs all seem to happen at once. We can have nothing for a week and then three jobs back-to-back.  This was the situation a couple of weeks ago when we had two jobs on the same day in central London.  After the lunchtime job we found ourselves with a couple of hours to spare before the next one so we headed to Bar Estrella for some nourishment between shifts.

Bar Estrella is a Portuguese cafe/restaurant in Vauxhall and, once inside, you feel as though you could be in Lisbon, not London.  The staff and customers chat together in Portuguese while at the bar there is a display of those lovely custard tarts you find in Portugal.  The waiters are dressed in crisp white cotton shirts and black trousers – something British waiting staff don’t seem to do anymore.  We sat in the cafe area but as we ordered a main meal rather than a snack they covered our table with a starched white linen tablecloth and brought olives, bread and butter to munch on while we waited.

I ordered rice with octopus which came served in its own little pot.  It was piping hot and had a bisque-like flavour to it, perfect nourishment for a late finish.  John chose pasta with garlic: the garlic that was tinged brown at the edges giving a lovely caramel taste.  We washed this down with a couple of Cokes that came in proper Coke glasses with masses of ice. This isn’t fancy cooking, it’s delicious, well-cooked and fresh – just like Mamma used to make.  If you’re affected by the credit crunch and can’t afford a holiday, go here for a taste of Portugal instead.